I saw an oust add in the concrete wave buyers guide which shows axles.
Are these axles 8mm and wider than regular axles ?
changeable axles !
Moderator: Terry Kirby
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Paul Howard
- Posts: 202
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2003 7:15 pm
- Location: Corvallis, Oregon. USA
Oust Axle Replacements
Indeed, that caught my attention as well. I don't have an answer to your question, but if you get them and if they're perfectly straight, here's my recommendation:
When you put them into the hangers you have, OVERBORE the hole just slightly enough to allow the new axle to slide in and out smoothly without any impingement. This can be easily done with a hand-held drill and by clamping your hanger into a vice or clamping it to a workbench.
When you put the new axles in, set them in with a high quality epoxy such as JB WELD to fill the space, and prior to insertion, wrap the ends of the axles with tape where you do not want epoxy stuck onto the axles.
If you have any gaps in the ends of the hanger between the axle and the hanger(and you likely will), you can make shims cut from aluminum pop cans, I cut numerous narrow pointy triangles of varying width and length to shim any and all gaps and so that I could make sure both ends of the axles are sitting evenly in both ends of the hanger.
Next, bake in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This will set the epoxy much faster and harder. If a conventional epoxy is used, bake around 100-110 degrees as most of those common epoxies have a much lower melting point.
The problem I've noticed is that about half of my rebuilt trucks re-done by machinists seemed to have had the new axle put into the same old hole or a barely re-bored hanger and the drill bit must have followed the same bent curve as the old axle/hole and all I ended up with is trucks that had nice 8mm axles with lathe cut ends for good bearing alignment but the axles were still getting bent in the process and ending up out of alignment in the end. This was brand new, unridden.
To be fair I've had perfectly straight axles and bent axles both come from local machine shops as well as everyone in the skateboard truck rebuilding business. There's a really simple test for this. Just take a wheel with good bearings, take your hanger off of your truck, put one axle end into the wheel/bearings, thread the axle nut on snug, put the wheel's outside edge on a flat surface, spin the hanger and see if, and how much it wobbles as it spins.
The only 2 truck brands I've done this test on that passed with any real regularity were different friend's PVD's (all heavily used much to the credit of Peter Verdone) and new Radikal Front's and a few rear hangers, but the heavily used Radikal rear truck like all trucks which use "prongs", "wings", "forks", "arms", etc will bend and fail this test with enough use. But They still seem to grip from what the owners tell me. (I have non of either brand myself).
I have rebuilt my 8mm TTC's, Splitfires, and Seismics after straightening the axles, and it's a noticable difference though sometimes not much at all as the trucks were mostly pretty good to begin with but I've got the "Truck-alignment Geek Disease" really bad. After much use, I want to retest my trucks that I worked on and see how permanent my own changes were.
In 2 rear trucks I left the axles slightly bent and re-set it into the hanger( so that the axles when mounted on the board with the wheels on the ground) were "down-set" slightly so that theoretically I would have a better contact patch between the wheels and pavement on roads that have a high crown (Morro Bay's Sunday T/S, or Hood River's T/S locations for example). It seems to work as I get a little more traction on those high crown roads with those trucks than other trucks of the same type and width, and the same "down-set" trucks are a little goofy on a perfecly flat surface with harder wheels compared to the "perfectly straight" axle trucks. Simpler solution- Just do the axles straight and adjust with softer wheels IF needed for high crown roads. To quote Chicken Deck "There's no truck that's ABSOLUTELY PERFECTLY straight".
Anyhow, this is probably WAY more than what you wanted to know, and I am but a B-Class slalomer, so take that for what it is worth. I might win more if I rode more instead of spending so much time screwing around with my trucks (or maybe not), but I've learned a lot in the process.
Good Luck-Paul
When you put them into the hangers you have, OVERBORE the hole just slightly enough to allow the new axle to slide in and out smoothly without any impingement. This can be easily done with a hand-held drill and by clamping your hanger into a vice or clamping it to a workbench.
When you put the new axles in, set them in with a high quality epoxy such as JB WELD to fill the space, and prior to insertion, wrap the ends of the axles with tape where you do not want epoxy stuck onto the axles.
If you have any gaps in the ends of the hanger between the axle and the hanger(and you likely will), you can make shims cut from aluminum pop cans, I cut numerous narrow pointy triangles of varying width and length to shim any and all gaps and so that I could make sure both ends of the axles are sitting evenly in both ends of the hanger.
Next, bake in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This will set the epoxy much faster and harder. If a conventional epoxy is used, bake around 100-110 degrees as most of those common epoxies have a much lower melting point.
The problem I've noticed is that about half of my rebuilt trucks re-done by machinists seemed to have had the new axle put into the same old hole or a barely re-bored hanger and the drill bit must have followed the same bent curve as the old axle/hole and all I ended up with is trucks that had nice 8mm axles with lathe cut ends for good bearing alignment but the axles were still getting bent in the process and ending up out of alignment in the end. This was brand new, unridden.
To be fair I've had perfectly straight axles and bent axles both come from local machine shops as well as everyone in the skateboard truck rebuilding business. There's a really simple test for this. Just take a wheel with good bearings, take your hanger off of your truck, put one axle end into the wheel/bearings, thread the axle nut on snug, put the wheel's outside edge on a flat surface, spin the hanger and see if, and how much it wobbles as it spins.
The only 2 truck brands I've done this test on that passed with any real regularity were different friend's PVD's (all heavily used much to the credit of Peter Verdone) and new Radikal Front's and a few rear hangers, but the heavily used Radikal rear truck like all trucks which use "prongs", "wings", "forks", "arms", etc will bend and fail this test with enough use. But They still seem to grip from what the owners tell me. (I have non of either brand myself).
I have rebuilt my 8mm TTC's, Splitfires, and Seismics after straightening the axles, and it's a noticable difference though sometimes not much at all as the trucks were mostly pretty good to begin with but I've got the "Truck-alignment Geek Disease" really bad. After much use, I want to retest my trucks that I worked on and see how permanent my own changes were.
In 2 rear trucks I left the axles slightly bent and re-set it into the hanger( so that the axles when mounted on the board with the wheels on the ground) were "down-set" slightly so that theoretically I would have a better contact patch between the wheels and pavement on roads that have a high crown (Morro Bay's Sunday T/S, or Hood River's T/S locations for example). It seems to work as I get a little more traction on those high crown roads with those trucks than other trucks of the same type and width, and the same "down-set" trucks are a little goofy on a perfecly flat surface with harder wheels compared to the "perfectly straight" axle trucks. Simpler solution- Just do the axles straight and adjust with softer wheels IF needed for high crown roads. To quote Chicken Deck "There's no truck that's ABSOLUTELY PERFECTLY straight".
Anyhow, this is probably WAY more than what you wanted to know, and I am but a B-Class slalomer, so take that for what it is worth. I might win more if I rode more instead of spending so much time screwing around with my trucks (or maybe not), but I've learned a lot in the process.
Good Luck-Paul
I just dig slalom!
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YOYO SHULTZ
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 2:00 am
- Location: Germany
- Contact:
From the fotos I have seen from Oust, it looks like a 'street sized' axle.
As Rodney Mullen cooperates with Oust a lot these days, it's quite probable that they will use the axle in newer versions of the Tensor trucks.
If they would be available for public, I guess that you could use them for Slalom as well, but to have to overbore the hanger before and maybe rethread some part of the axles as well.
YOYO
As Rodney Mullen cooperates with Oust a lot these days, it's quite probable that they will use the axle in newer versions of the Tensor trucks.
If they would be available for public, I guess that you could use them for Slalom as well, but to have to overbore the hanger before and maybe rethread some part of the axles as well.
YOYO
