hmm, that's a bummer about the delamination. I wasn't aware of that issue, and I just made a 44" long board with carved concave in it for a friend of mine. it did have "rails" and a center rib, though, so maybe it will last (?)
Also, 5/8" birch ply is just thick and heavy as a bitch. We're talking more than Plank tech, it'll be Log tech if I try to make a 30" board out of it. I was hoping to take some of the weight and stiffness out. bummer.
thanks for the advice, though.
home made boards
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I wouldn't bevel the bottom of the board to the rails with "ply" wood. I tried that with plywood and it ended up delaming within a few runs. I think the stresses on the ply in the wood was too much for ply wood.
Now solid wood...you are good to go to do whatever you want.
The reason you have multiple holes in the rear is that most people find a place that they like the have hir front foot in relation to the front truck, once they find it even the slightest change feels "off". If you put them on the back the "off" feeling is less...plus must people pull the rear truck back to increase stability, moving your rear foot back helps too.
The only deck I can think of off hand that came with multiple sets of holes in the nose was the Turner fatboy. I used to move my front truck more than the rear truck on that board....but I can say I never considered that board a "precise" deck so any movement in the front truck wasn't a huge deal.
On the other hand I recently move my front truck on my current plank .250" further forward under my front foot....I am STILL trying to get used to it and it has been over a month...I cna move the rear truck on the same board up to 4" and have no issues.
Now solid wood...you are good to go to do whatever you want.
The reason you have multiple holes in the rear is that most people find a place that they like the have hir front foot in relation to the front truck, once they find it even the slightest change feels "off". If you put them on the back the "off" feeling is less...plus must people pull the rear truck back to increase stability, moving your rear foot back helps too.
The only deck I can think of off hand that came with multiple sets of holes in the nose was the Turner fatboy. I used to move my front truck more than the rear truck on that board....but I can say I never considered that board a "precise" deck so any movement in the front truck wasn't a huge deal.
On the other hand I recently move my front truck on my current plank .250" further forward under my front foot....I am STILL trying to get used to it and it has been over a month...I cna move the rear truck on the same board up to 4" and have no issues.
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Rene Hayden
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 1:00 am
- Location: Vancouver BC-Washington DC
hey all,
there is no forum for this --BOGUS!-- so I'll just ask this question here.
since I have no money, but plenty of 5/8" 11-ply baltic birch, I'm just going to make myself a 30" board, no glass.
What do you think if I whittle down the sides to about 1/2" or smaller in the interests of lightness and slight flex, (wheelwells separate), but leave a 5/8" truck-wide "rib" down the middle in the interests of torsional rigidity? Any issues with breakage, do you think?
The shape will be pocket-pistol-esque (pointy nose, square tail), and I'll be using it to run the usual DC runs (hybrid). Also, why do people put variable drilled wheelbases on the back truck position and not the front? Seems like cone downing results more from the ass end sticking out than the front.
Please educate me!
there is no forum for this --BOGUS!-- so I'll just ask this question here.
since I have no money, but plenty of 5/8" 11-ply baltic birch, I'm just going to make myself a 30" board, no glass.
What do you think if I whittle down the sides to about 1/2" or smaller in the interests of lightness and slight flex, (wheelwells separate), but leave a 5/8" truck-wide "rib" down the middle in the interests of torsional rigidity? Any issues with breakage, do you think?
The shape will be pocket-pistol-esque (pointy nose, square tail), and I'll be using it to run the usual DC runs (hybrid). Also, why do people put variable drilled wheelbases on the back truck position and not the front? Seems like cone downing results more from the ass end sticking out than the front.
Please educate me!