ISSA - International Slalom Skateboarding Association

I de wedge my rear 50 degree plate about 10 degrees on my gs/super g stix

and as for bushings...its all a game of what works best for you

I use barrel khiro whites in front and a blue barrel bottom with a insert blue top
now heres the try for yourself part...I use flat washers between the bottom bushing and the baseplate and a flat between the bushing and nut on the front truck for gs/super g

on the rear I use NOTHING between the bottom bushing and baseplate ...

on tight/hybrid I use nothing between the baseplate and front bushings..thats what Ive found works best for me!

Awesome information man! Thanks...

So leave the one 9/16" flat riser in the back and just cut the shock pad in half so its a small wedge... Right? and what do you mean by "86 the shock pad..." is that what you just described?

Otherwise, sounds good...

For the bushing combo I should go that hard? I felt like I needed the whites in there to liven it up... Maybe thats mostly due to the fact that the front was only wedged 10* instead of 20*...

A slalom clinic in NJ??? COUNT ME IN!!! I'm definitely down for that... the slalom scene is growing here with Sensei, Tyler, and I getting into it... Along with one of my friends and all of Fats' friends...

Sounds awesome, thanks for the help.

http://www.asphaltplayground.com/wedging.pdf

Copy the first picture. Double wedge up front. 86 the shock pad. You want the rear dead. The only thing I do is cut the smallest rubber pad (1/16 or 1/8) in half and put the half under the tail end of the rear truck. Something like a 3degree dewedge. You could just cut the shock pad you have on there now.

Don't worry about the board being on a slant. It works. More leverage or something.

Don't let Gary's TS setup throw you. When you are ready to have a board that is only good for five footers at speed, you might consider it. Otherwise be happy with your excellent setup. It should be perfect for all but the most extreme of courses.

Try the white blue, blue blue I suggested. The wheelbase gets moved out as the hill gets bigger and the space between cones gets wider.

I will do a clinic this spring in NJ. The first 5 hours will be on wrenching your setup.

Joe

So I recently acquired a new Fatboy “Fata$$” for TS (29.5” by 9” with 17, 18, and 19” wheelbase options). Its set up at the 18" wheelbase option with 107 Splits and Hot Spots (86a front, 83a rear) with the front split being a 50* plate, wedged 10*, and the rear being a DH plate (35*) with a flat riser (1/2”). While at first riding the thing around was a dream… I noticed that the splits seem to been less responsive than I had imagined…

I was then told to:

Add another 10* wedge to the front, making it 20* of wedge. That should definitely increase the responsiveness…

Find a perfect bushing combo. – Currently I have Khiro barrel whites in the front, and a blue barrel bottom and white (fat) insert top for the rear. Any suggestions as what to use for a bushing combo to make it feel more responsive? (I weigh 150 and 5’ 9”, if that matters at all…)

Also another thing that concerned me, was that when I looked at the Wedging PDF on the Asphalt Playground website, it showed Fluitt’s TS setup as having two 50* plates. Should I have gotten a 50* for the rear as well instead of the DH plate?

Or – should I wedge the DH plate to make the angle more and make it feel less “dead.”

And also, about wheelbase options: I have it set up at the 18" wheelbase option, just thought that I should set it up in the middle first. For TS and running 5.5 - 6 foot spacing, should I just move it to the smallest wheelbase, or does a slightly longer wheelbase have any advantages for TS over a smaller one?

Otherwise, the trucks are great! What an awesome ride! I just want to make the most of these trucks and really get them perfect.

One other last concern would be that in my rear truck. Whenever the truck turns, it makes a short but loud click noise when pressure is applied to go into a turn. After the click and continuation of more pressure on the rail, there is no more noise and its smooth as better. But that first initial pressure on whichever rail to turn makes a click… Just thought I’d bring that up.

Here are some pictures of the setup!





(The board is made of V-lam Bamboo, Oak, and Ipe)

Sorry about such a long, beginner post. Hopefully you guys can help out!