Special Videographer skateboard.
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- Phoenix, AZ, USA
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John,
Just a thought. Use a heavy guage wire or rod and make a "bumper" all the way around the side of the board. Use wood risers, drill two holes so the wire will fit in the front facing front, two in the back facing back and plug the wire or rod into the front hole then proceed to bend the wire or rod around the front wheel on that side going along the side of the board, around the back wheelset and into the back hole. Do the same for the other side. This keeps cones out of your wheels.
If you don't want to use risers, you can use those funny wire thingys that Fluit uses for his foot block, heck, his wire and mounting hardware is probably a good choice for your bumper kit. You could take it off pretty easy and even originate the wires from deck side.
Send me an e or pm with your cell or contact number, I lost it. TK, the number you gave me was wrong, can you send the # again? Vlad, while you are at it, send yours too.
Just a thought.
Just a thought. Use a heavy guage wire or rod and make a "bumper" all the way around the side of the board. Use wood risers, drill two holes so the wire will fit in the front facing front, two in the back facing back and plug the wire or rod into the front hole then proceed to bend the wire or rod around the front wheel on that side going along the side of the board, around the back wheelset and into the back hole. Do the same for the other side. This keeps cones out of your wheels.
If you don't want to use risers, you can use those funny wire thingys that Fluit uses for his foot block, heck, his wire and mounting hardware is probably a good choice for your bumper kit. You could take it off pretty easy and even originate the wires from deck side.
Send me an e or pm with your cell or contact number, I lost it. TK, the number you gave me was wrong, can you send the # again? Vlad, while you are at it, send yours too.
Just a thought.
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- Team Roe Racing
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Hey guys I wanted a simple cheap instant solution- little or no work to make this deck....but I think TK's offer to make me the device is a good one.
Other things that came to mind were cutting up a Tomatoe can in half lengthwise with tin snips drilling a hole in it and bending some strips at the bottom to keep it locked in place.
Cost of Tomatoe can 79 cents- or zero if you eat the contents.
Cost of missing good slalom footage priceless.
Other things that came to mind were cutting up a Tomatoe can in half lengthwise with tin snips drilling a hole in it and bending some strips at the bottom to keep it locked in place.
Cost of Tomatoe can 79 cents- or zero if you eat the contents.
Cost of missing good slalom footage priceless.
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- 1961-2013 (RIP)
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Ummmm, far be it from me to complain about anyone getting "off topic" because God knows I do it enough.
Y'all do realize, though, that I only posted that pic as an example of JG's proposed "cow catcher" for his camera chase board? I in no way was attempting to demonstrate the pros and cons of how such a board works at speed?
But while we're on the topic of speed fairings and such, I'll just mention one very telling example that has stuck with me since I was a kid.
At Signal Hill, John Hutson wore leathers and a fly away helmet and went 53 MPH on his Santa Cruz with Indys. I don't know what wheels were used. Bad H used his White Lightning Skate Car with full faring, Stroker Trucks (the PVDs of their day,) and custom thin RR. H posted a time of right at 59 MPH. All that money, effort, design and engineering for an additional 6 MPH. Since that day, I've always considered Hut's Tuck and some well-oiled bearings about all you need to kick ass on a downhill course. Nothing against Hester and the other skate car guys, but they really didn't set the world on fire for all their attempts at reducing drag.
Y'all do realize, though, that I only posted that pic as an example of JG's proposed "cow catcher" for his camera chase board? I in no way was attempting to demonstrate the pros and cons of how such a board works at speed?
But while we're on the topic of speed fairings and such, I'll just mention one very telling example that has stuck with me since I was a kid.
At Signal Hill, John Hutson wore leathers and a fly away helmet and went 53 MPH on his Santa Cruz with Indys. I don't know what wheels were used. Bad H used his White Lightning Skate Car with full faring, Stroker Trucks (the PVDs of their day,) and custom thin RR. H posted a time of right at 59 MPH. All that money, effort, design and engineering for an additional 6 MPH. Since that day, I've always considered Hut's Tuck and some well-oiled bearings about all you need to kick ass on a downhill course. Nothing against Hester and the other skate car guys, but they really didn't set the world on fire for all their attempts at reducing drag.
Adam...Aero matters...but not on the board itself. I doubt making your deck/trucks/wheels "aero" makes any difference to standard stuff. However "aero" in your helmet, leathers (material choices), shoes (over looked often) stance and form matter...and matter big.
I used to be into cycling. In fact when i was around 16 I used to race in team triathalons as the "bike guy". I was one of the first people to have the new (at the time) aero bars. Now I was never a top rider but I was mid pack, I got the job done for the team....but with the aero bars I remember on flats I could out tuck, out draft and out ride faster riders all the time.
Aero matters!
Aero design skateboards might be a neat science project or aesthetic thing...but I seriously doubt they do much at all.
For slalom your biggest Aero advantage is going to come from wearing shorts that fit and tucking in your shirt....
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Chris Stepanek on 2003-07-24 20:40 ]</font>
I used to be into cycling. In fact when i was around 16 I used to race in team triathalons as the "bike guy". I was one of the first people to have the new (at the time) aero bars. Now I was never a top rider but I was mid pack, I got the job done for the team....but with the aero bars I remember on flats I could out tuck, out draft and out ride faster riders all the time.
Aero matters!
Aero design skateboards might be a neat science project or aesthetic thing...but I seriously doubt they do much at all.
For slalom your biggest Aero advantage is going to come from wearing shorts that fit and tucking in your shirt....
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Chris Stepanek on 2003-07-24 20:40 ]</font>
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- Moscow-Washington
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- Phoenix, AZ, USA
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Hey Chris,
Aero doesn't really matter?
Huh?
Do trucks really matter?
I don't challenge you, none what so ever, it just sounds odd coming from a GERT enthusiast.
I think aero (helmet, clothes, board, stance, attitude) drag reduction and it's timing difference comes into play only in two VERY closely matched racers. The aero in that scenario is probably more mental in edge and I bet often that is enough to put a fingertip ahead in the breaking of a beam.
Esthetics?
Psychology?
Theory?
Practice!
Practice makes perfect. Practice on a timing system will do WAAY more than any aero motif but let's not discount aero, please???
adam
p.s. Can you tell I'm starting to feel better?
Aero doesn't really matter?
Huh?
Do trucks really matter?
I don't challenge you, none what so ever, it just sounds odd coming from a GERT enthusiast.
I think aero (helmet, clothes, board, stance, attitude) drag reduction and it's timing difference comes into play only in two VERY closely matched racers. The aero in that scenario is probably more mental in edge and I bet often that is enough to put a fingertip ahead in the breaking of a beam.
Esthetics?
Psychology?
Theory?
Practice!
Practice makes perfect. Practice on a timing system will do WAAY more than any aero motif but let's not discount aero, please???
adam
p.s. Can you tell I'm starting to feel better?
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- Team RoeRacing
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The Fenders can be make from Carbon fibre and inside could contain a small computer chip which can record the number of cones it came in contact with. This could easily be pluged into a lap top to get a printout of the information. A speedometer could also be integrated into the unit by attaching a series of small magnets to the wheel and skirt and mounting a bicyle computer to the top of the deck. This could tell you how fast riders were going so long as you kept a constant distance from them. (this should also be logged into the laptop). A neon gas tube could be mounted to the rear of the deck so it flashed every time a rider hit a cone. This can be achieved by building a small microphone that triggered the light when it picked up the plinking sound of cones. When logged into the lap top this could help solve disputes on missed cone counts. A simple solution to the Drop through /No Drop through dilema would be to simply install a small hydralic system like Snoop Dog has on his Impala. This could raise or lower the deck to ones liking. A car batterey stored in a special back pack which the rider wears can power this feature. Wires can be snaked through the riders pants and into the pack. TK
John - the damn deck will be for one purpose only. A stable platform to go straight down a hill following slalomers....who cares about performance. Plus it would make a kick ass catermaram (sp?) deck. I KNOW you like that.
You know. I've thought of aero options on a slalom deck. Basically a reversed kick (groundward) in the nose and a spoiler/wing (tail kick) on the rear of the deck. The problem is is that aero things like that , given the surface area of a skateboard, wouldn't come into play (I assume) until you hit speeds approaching 200mph. How many 200mph slalom courses do you know.
I think aero options on the deck even for downhill are almost useless. Yes, slightly larger surface area than a slalomboard but still small compared to the speeds of downhill, 70mph tops. I think any aero advantage you get in downhill skateboarding is the rider, the rider's tuck/form and what the ridr is wearing. Chaput proved that all years ago. The drop thru concept for speedboards makes ALOT of sense as the other big deal is lower CG...again Chaput proved that too.
Specifically for slalom any aero work on the board itself is useless and given the needs of pumping it is hard to maintain and aero efficient form. I have seen Hutson and Mollica both adapt thir riding style to help cut headwinds but i think it's effects are limited. Mollica's duct tape spandex had more to do with his win at La Costa 02 than his profile thru the wind.
So...aero bits on skateboards are dumb. There I said it...
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Chris Stepanek on 2003-07-24 16:28 ]</font>
You know. I've thought of aero options on a slalom deck. Basically a reversed kick (groundward) in the nose and a spoiler/wing (tail kick) on the rear of the deck. The problem is is that aero things like that , given the surface area of a skateboard, wouldn't come into play (I assume) until you hit speeds approaching 200mph. How many 200mph slalom courses do you know.
I think aero options on the deck even for downhill are almost useless. Yes, slightly larger surface area than a slalomboard but still small compared to the speeds of downhill, 70mph tops. I think any aero advantage you get in downhill skateboarding is the rider, the rider's tuck/form and what the ridr is wearing. Chaput proved that all years ago. The drop thru concept for speedboards makes ALOT of sense as the other big deal is lower CG...again Chaput proved that too.
Specifically for slalom any aero work on the board itself is useless and given the needs of pumping it is hard to maintain and aero efficient form. I have seen Hutson and Mollica both adapt thir riding style to help cut headwinds but i think it's effects are limited. Mollica's duct tape spandex had more to do with his win at La Costa 02 than his profile thru the wind.
So...aero bits on skateboards are dumb. There I said it...
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Chris Stepanek on 2003-07-24 16:28 ]</font>
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- Team Roe Racing
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So far Chris' idea seems to lead....but witha little more thinking- Wesley's board mounted skirt popped in again. Instead of having to cut up my deck... Has anyone seen any kind of plastic fender that could mount on the truck?
A fender with a leading edge would sweep cones away- also could be easy to mount and unmount.
One other bizzare an inexpensive idea would be to get 2 tupperware bowls that extended beyond the wheels mount those under the trucks.I suppose if it protruded far enough around the wheels it could have a 1 inch gap between the ground.
Chris' idea would look much cooler though. My only reason not going for this is that I prefer the ride of regular decks as opposed to drop throughs.
Also If I made a few of these "fenders" I could give them out to people who wanted to film.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: John Gilmour on 2003-07-24 16:44 ]</font>
A fender with a leading edge would sweep cones away- also could be easy to mount and unmount.
One other bizzare an inexpensive idea would be to get 2 tupperware bowls that extended beyond the wheels mount those under the trucks.I suppose if it protruded far enough around the wheels it could have a 1 inch gap between the ground.
Chris' idea would look much cooler though. My only reason not going for this is that I prefer the ride of regular decks as opposed to drop throughs.
Also If I made a few of these "fenders" I could give them out to people who wanted to film.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: John Gilmour on 2003-07-24 16:44 ]</font>
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- Phoenix, AZ, USA
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- Team Roe Racing
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- Team Roe Racing
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Cool Kimbel photo Wesley!
On a downhill board the deck probably did not lean much.
I'm inclined to think that the drop through method + low cow catcher is the way to go. No cones to go in front and under- even exposed cone lips and none could enter anywhere else- particularly if I run a narrower truck in the rear- which should be fine as most ride the longboards up front. It also would be very stable due to its length and lowered CG for riders not accustomed to going very fast.
Anyone done drop throughs on the East coast?
Did Duane do his drop through himself?
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: John Gilmour on 2003-07-24 14:55 ]</font>
On a downhill board the deck probably did not lean much.
I'm inclined to think that the drop through method + low cow catcher is the way to go. No cones to go in front and under- even exposed cone lips and none could enter anywhere else- particularly if I run a narrower truck in the rear- which should be fine as most ride the longboards up front. It also would be very stable due to its length and lowered CG for riders not accustomed to going very fast.
Anyone done drop throughs on the East coast?
Did Duane do his drop through himself?
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: John Gilmour on 2003-07-24 14:55 ]</font>
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- 1961-2013 (RIP)
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A picture is worth a thousand words . . . on in JG's case, three thousand words.
Here is a pic of none other than Curt Kimbel on his custom downhill Ick from around 1979:

I assume this is the configuration Gilmour prefers for his videographer's cone-safe board? This "skirt" is a faring for increased downhill aerodynamics, but I'm sure it could also double as John's cone shield. Although I fully understand how injurious it would be to a Roe rider's self esteme to go hat in hand on his knees begging Ick for a board. The good news, though, is that at least someone out there has the experience and skill to create the board John is contemplating.
Perhaps Curt still has this board stashed somewhere in his attic gathering dust? If so, a few runs with a camera in hand might prove or disprove Gilmour's theories. Perhaps as John rides by we could set up a gauntlet of throwing cones at his feet and see how long he lasts?
Hey, it's just an idea.
Here is a pic of none other than Curt Kimbel on his custom downhill Ick from around 1979:

I assume this is the configuration Gilmour prefers for his videographer's cone-safe board? This "skirt" is a faring for increased downhill aerodynamics, but I'm sure it could also double as John's cone shield. Although I fully understand how injurious it would be to a Roe rider's self esteme to go hat in hand on his knees begging Ick for a board. The good news, though, is that at least someone out there has the experience and skill to create the board John is contemplating.
Perhaps Curt still has this board stashed somewhere in his attic gathering dust? If so, a few runs with a camera in hand might prove or disprove Gilmour's theories. Perhaps as John rides by we could set up a gauntlet of throwing cones at his feet and see how long he lasts?
Hey, it's just an idea.
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- WesE
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- Team Roe Racing
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When chasing a skater doing slalom a videographer risks getting cones trapped under his board and consequently falling.
I have a broken Ed Economy board that can be salvaged to make a "cone proof" chase board. Such a board would have to have a "skirt" around it to prevent cones from getting under the wheels or deck.
Any suggestions for this skirt material
I was thinking about that Orange Plastic Netting that is pretty dense. It is flexible and would not break or crack and would be easy to screw to a deck.
Anyone have access to this?
Or better still.... have a better simpler idea.
I have a broken Ed Economy board that can be salvaged to make a "cone proof" chase board. Such a board would have to have a "skirt" around it to prevent cones from getting under the wheels or deck.
Any suggestions for this skirt material
I was thinking about that Orange Plastic Netting that is pretty dense. It is flexible and would not break or crack and would be easy to screw to a deck.
Anyone have access to this?
Or better still.... have a better simpler idea.