Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2003 10:43 pm
How I typically go about setting a course.
First off- know the hill.
1. Roll the hill- from top to bottom- straightline on your slalom deck. Do roll in roughly the "straight" line you would take down the hill- avoiding all surface imperfections, just like you would do if you were setting a course.
A. make note of where your board begins to accelerate
B. make note of where your board is merely coasting
C. make note of where your board is slowing down in terms of acceleration....consider not setting anything speed robbing there.
D. at places where your board appears to be coasting.- stop in that area and see if you would resume coasting down hill...if not make note of that and don't set any gates there that would suck speed out of the course. BUT also figure about how fast you would be entering that section and make sure the gates would be makeable for that speed.
e. Try to set gates that are wider and would cause you to go slower just in front of steeper pitches and on steeper pitches.....and don't set ANY gates that would slow you down within 40 feet of a "coasting section"
f.Set your courses harder at first- it is better to try and make a fast course even faster than to set a technically slow course and try to make it fast.
____________________________________________
2. Dropping the cones down.
***** the 11th Commandment- thou shalt always try to make the course equally difficult for both goofy and regular foot riders without unfavorably penalizing someone for their stance (you'd think those Parallel stance guys would be laughing....but they have an even more difficult time than either goofy or regular footed riders on highly offset courses)
a. make sure that you do not start your course where a car would not have enough time to see you and stop......and should a car see you and come to a stop in front of your course- make sure that ANOTHER car behind that first car would not hit the other car. Also make sure YOU can be seen EVEN if a car is blocking the course!
b. If setting a Duel ALWAYS drop a course down on the side of the road that has the most surface imperfections and problems- and "Dupe" the course onto the clean side. Nothing sucks more than having one course with a Manhole cover in between a gate- or having to cross over paint lines or road reflectors or a patch of cracks on one course. Make sure ...should you decide to set a duel that there is no patch of cracks that affects one course and not the other. If these conditions can not be met the answer is - set single track. A duel with uneven courses is not fair regardless of the fact that both racers race the same course.
c. Figure out about how much speed the typical racer would be entering the course and set cone spacings appropriate for that speed.
d. Make the first few gates good for pumping- but not overly technical....this will allow racers to fix any footing mistakes and greatly reduce the likelyhood of injury, ambulances, contest delays, and lawsuits.
e. If the racers are not entering with a fast speed-----> set enough gates to allow the racer to build speed in the course. 6-12 gates should allow most racers to get some workable speed depending on the hill pitch. They could be lightly offset, but setting widely offset cones in the beginning of the course will merely negate the objective of a good ramp or should you use a box push start...the start itself. Having poor footing will just increase the likelyhood of injury and lawsuits should a catostrophic injury occur such as a head injury. These "warm up cones" will allow the racers to prepare for the course as they gather or maintain their speed.
f. Now consider adding some wider offsets if the surface and pitch permits. If the surface does not permit it you should not be setting wide offsets. If the surface is good and the pitch is poor you should not be setting side offsets (one exception is a ridiculously steep hill that is steep and flattens then is steep and flattens....one where you would be going 40mph in less than 100 feet).
G. If the surface is good and the pitch is minimal you could consider adding technical components that do not take away speed but are still challenging such as a Curve of cones or uneven cone spacing, or step overs.
H. Try to match the types of technical components to the level of the riders skating. Haha ha ha I know I violate this one all the time
..... but seriously try to set things that encourage the skaters to skate the course and boost confidence while still giving people a source of achievement in progressing their skills.
So I'll try to catagorize different course components in terms of difficulty.
"Green dot"
1. Straight cones of even spacing 7-7.5 on center
2. Offsets with regular offset and even spacing 8-9.5 feet with 6 inches of offset
3. Step overs of straight cones 6.5 foot7.5 foot
4. Gaps or rhythm breakers
5. gimmee gates
"Blue Square"
1. Tighter straight cones 6.5 feet on center
2. Slight offsets taken at speeds over 18 mph 7.5- 8 foot on center with 6 inches of offset.
3. "Beat Busters" Uneven cone spacing of straight cones varying from 6 foot on center to 7.5 foot on center
4. Offset cones set within a line of straight cones offset to only one side
5. Diagonal series of cones regularly spaced
6. Straight cones that must be approached as if they were offsets in order to make the next series of cones.
7. Offsets that must be approached as if they were straights in order to make the next series of cones.
8. Cones which should be criddled in order to make the next series of cones.
9. Cones which should be taken wide to make the next series of cones.
10. Cones where you should be pumping and cones where you should stop pumping
"Black Diamond"
1. Courses that have few straight cones.
2. Cones of varying spacing irregular as well as with iregular offset.
3. Courses with Curves
4. Sections that require braking and controlled slides
5. Sections that require more unusual body positioning to make the course.
6. Sections that require pumping at speeds over 20 mph.
"Double Black Diamond"
1. Curves with Rippers ( series of curved cones with one of the outside cones placed further to the outside of the curve.
2. Decreasing radius curves
3. Setting cones using the crown on the road as a reverse banked turn
4. High speed braking
5. Cones that require 4 wheel slides and drift to make them- (Not to be set in competition) that's 4 wheel not just rear wheel.
6.A "J" series of cones that leads the rider into a decreasing radius curve across the fall line and then requires the rider to make another set of diagonal cones set across the fall line in the other direction.
7. Cones that position a rider at high speed to attempt to do a straight series of cones with his entire body far to the left or right of that series of cones.
8. Cone series that force the rider to extend and compress in height quickly as the sections change.
9. Sections that force the rider to quickly and precisely change style and foot positioning within the course at high speed to make sections.
10. Courses regularly exceeding 25mph for the bulk of the course.
----------------------------------------
So take a look at the group of riders and choose your "course components" to match the skill levels of the riders present for the particular catogory of racer- Am Pro- Beginner- Women- Kids- masters...etc you will be serving.
You don't need to try to control the rider's speed with wide offsets as the racer will go wide if he or she thinks it is necessary- Should the hill have lots of pitch use wide offsets with enough vertical drop to allow faster racers to gather more speed.
Finally ...don't make the last gates technically complex...they can be tighter but shouldn't be ridiculously offset or overly complex as this is the area where skaters will toss their better judgement out the window to beat another skater or post a faster time.-----> making a section overly complex at the finish just invites injury and ambulances.
The most technically complex sections of the courses should happen after then first 20 percent of the course but before the last 20 percent of the course. Having the drag strip at the end of the course can make for some amazing comebacks.
_________________________________________
So a sample TS Blue square course for a constant pitch hill where a rider would hit 15mph at the bottom of a 300 foot ride might look like this.
5 cones 6.5 foot on center.
6 cones 7.5 foot on center with 6 inches of offset
move over 3 feet and down 4 feet and set a step over of 5 cones
Now three wider offsets 9 foot on center with 2.5 feet of offset
5 Straight cones of varying distance
A step over to the other side of 7 cones
Mixed offsets with straights to a series of 5 straight cones 6.5 feet on center with the final 3 cones being 6.0 feet on center.
-------------------------------------------
Things to note don't try and force a "blue Square slalomer" to set a "Black Diamond course"-----------------------------> make a more experienced higher level slalomer set high level courses. Certainly you wouldn't expect Martha Stewart to set up a race course for Emerson Fitipauldi or Emerson to decorate Martha's house.
First off- know the hill.
1. Roll the hill- from top to bottom- straightline on your slalom deck. Do roll in roughly the "straight" line you would take down the hill- avoiding all surface imperfections, just like you would do if you were setting a course.
A. make note of where your board begins to accelerate
B. make note of where your board is merely coasting
C. make note of where your board is slowing down in terms of acceleration....consider not setting anything speed robbing there.
D. at places where your board appears to be coasting.- stop in that area and see if you would resume coasting down hill...if not make note of that and don't set any gates there that would suck speed out of the course. BUT also figure about how fast you would be entering that section and make sure the gates would be makeable for that speed.
e. Try to set gates that are wider and would cause you to go slower just in front of steeper pitches and on steeper pitches.....and don't set ANY gates that would slow you down within 40 feet of a "coasting section"
f.Set your courses harder at first- it is better to try and make a fast course even faster than to set a technically slow course and try to make it fast.
____________________________________________
2. Dropping the cones down.
***** the 11th Commandment- thou shalt always try to make the course equally difficult for both goofy and regular foot riders without unfavorably penalizing someone for their stance (you'd think those Parallel stance guys would be laughing....but they have an even more difficult time than either goofy or regular footed riders on highly offset courses)
a. make sure that you do not start your course where a car would not have enough time to see you and stop......and should a car see you and come to a stop in front of your course- make sure that ANOTHER car behind that first car would not hit the other car. Also make sure YOU can be seen EVEN if a car is blocking the course!
b. If setting a Duel ALWAYS drop a course down on the side of the road that has the most surface imperfections and problems- and "Dupe" the course onto the clean side. Nothing sucks more than having one course with a Manhole cover in between a gate- or having to cross over paint lines or road reflectors or a patch of cracks on one course. Make sure ...should you decide to set a duel that there is no patch of cracks that affects one course and not the other. If these conditions can not be met the answer is - set single track. A duel with uneven courses is not fair regardless of the fact that both racers race the same course.
c. Figure out about how much speed the typical racer would be entering the course and set cone spacings appropriate for that speed.
d. Make the first few gates good for pumping- but not overly technical....this will allow racers to fix any footing mistakes and greatly reduce the likelyhood of injury, ambulances, contest delays, and lawsuits.
e. If the racers are not entering with a fast speed-----> set enough gates to allow the racer to build speed in the course. 6-12 gates should allow most racers to get some workable speed depending on the hill pitch. They could be lightly offset, but setting widely offset cones in the beginning of the course will merely negate the objective of a good ramp or should you use a box push start...the start itself. Having poor footing will just increase the likelyhood of injury and lawsuits should a catostrophic injury occur such as a head injury. These "warm up cones" will allow the racers to prepare for the course as they gather or maintain their speed.
f. Now consider adding some wider offsets if the surface and pitch permits. If the surface does not permit it you should not be setting wide offsets. If the surface is good and the pitch is poor you should not be setting side offsets (one exception is a ridiculously steep hill that is steep and flattens then is steep and flattens....one where you would be going 40mph in less than 100 feet).
G. If the surface is good and the pitch is minimal you could consider adding technical components that do not take away speed but are still challenging such as a Curve of cones or uneven cone spacing, or step overs.
H. Try to match the types of technical components to the level of the riders skating. Haha ha ha I know I violate this one all the time

So I'll try to catagorize different course components in terms of difficulty.
"Green dot"
1. Straight cones of even spacing 7-7.5 on center
2. Offsets with regular offset and even spacing 8-9.5 feet with 6 inches of offset
3. Step overs of straight cones 6.5 foot7.5 foot
4. Gaps or rhythm breakers
5. gimmee gates
"Blue Square"
1. Tighter straight cones 6.5 feet on center
2. Slight offsets taken at speeds over 18 mph 7.5- 8 foot on center with 6 inches of offset.
3. "Beat Busters" Uneven cone spacing of straight cones varying from 6 foot on center to 7.5 foot on center
4. Offset cones set within a line of straight cones offset to only one side
5. Diagonal series of cones regularly spaced
6. Straight cones that must be approached as if they were offsets in order to make the next series of cones.
7. Offsets that must be approached as if they were straights in order to make the next series of cones.
8. Cones which should be criddled in order to make the next series of cones.
9. Cones which should be taken wide to make the next series of cones.
10. Cones where you should be pumping and cones where you should stop pumping
"Black Diamond"
1. Courses that have few straight cones.
2. Cones of varying spacing irregular as well as with iregular offset.
3. Courses with Curves
4. Sections that require braking and controlled slides
5. Sections that require more unusual body positioning to make the course.
6. Sections that require pumping at speeds over 20 mph.
"Double Black Diamond"
1. Curves with Rippers ( series of curved cones with one of the outside cones placed further to the outside of the curve.
2. Decreasing radius curves
3. Setting cones using the crown on the road as a reverse banked turn
4. High speed braking
5. Cones that require 4 wheel slides and drift to make them- (Not to be set in competition) that's 4 wheel not just rear wheel.
6.A "J" series of cones that leads the rider into a decreasing radius curve across the fall line and then requires the rider to make another set of diagonal cones set across the fall line in the other direction.
7. Cones that position a rider at high speed to attempt to do a straight series of cones with his entire body far to the left or right of that series of cones.
8. Cone series that force the rider to extend and compress in height quickly as the sections change.
9. Sections that force the rider to quickly and precisely change style and foot positioning within the course at high speed to make sections.
10. Courses regularly exceeding 25mph for the bulk of the course.
----------------------------------------
So take a look at the group of riders and choose your "course components" to match the skill levels of the riders present for the particular catogory of racer- Am Pro- Beginner- Women- Kids- masters...etc you will be serving.
You don't need to try to control the rider's speed with wide offsets as the racer will go wide if he or she thinks it is necessary- Should the hill have lots of pitch use wide offsets with enough vertical drop to allow faster racers to gather more speed.
Finally ...don't make the last gates technically complex...they can be tighter but shouldn't be ridiculously offset or overly complex as this is the area where skaters will toss their better judgement out the window to beat another skater or post a faster time.-----> making a section overly complex at the finish just invites injury and ambulances.
The most technically complex sections of the courses should happen after then first 20 percent of the course but before the last 20 percent of the course. Having the drag strip at the end of the course can make for some amazing comebacks.
_________________________________________
So a sample TS Blue square course for a constant pitch hill where a rider would hit 15mph at the bottom of a 300 foot ride might look like this.
5 cones 6.5 foot on center.
6 cones 7.5 foot on center with 6 inches of offset
move over 3 feet and down 4 feet and set a step over of 5 cones
Now three wider offsets 9 foot on center with 2.5 feet of offset
5 Straight cones of varying distance
A step over to the other side of 7 cones
Mixed offsets with straights to a series of 5 straight cones 6.5 feet on center with the final 3 cones being 6.0 feet on center.
-------------------------------------------
Things to note don't try and force a "blue Square slalomer" to set a "Black Diamond course"-----------------------------> make a more experienced higher level slalomer set high level courses. Certainly you wouldn't expect Martha Stewart to set up a race course for Emerson Fitipauldi or Emerson to decorate Martha's house.