Terry, you'll want either a good, high-watt hair dryer, or if you know of a Snowboard Shop where you can borrow a p-tex repair Heat Gun, that'll be quicker to use.
Basically you want to put enough heat into the lower part of the block to get the glue to give. If there's griptape over the block that'll need heating first, and should be peeled by rolling it away from the edge of the board (think,
Unrolling a Fattie) , as it'll want to curl under the heat, and will tear easily if forced. Look for slight 'heat wave' discoloration on the tape, that'l tell ya it's pliable. Be sure not (especially if using a heat gun) put too much heat into the tape or foam block, as they can bubble or deform. Once things are unglued a bit, work under the foam block with a thin spatula, and pry gently while adding a bit more heat. Once it's all apart, pick your new positioning, maybe mark it with a Sharpie. Oh, and once the block is out, this is the time to shave it to change it's angle or depth, if you want.
In choosing glue, there's two choices I've good results with, Scotch Super 77 spray adhesive, which while messy at times, is fairly secure, and cures quickly, in about 2-3 hours. The other I like is Gorrilla Grip Urethane glue, but it takes awhile to cure, usually a bit longer than overnight. Be sure the place you cure in has ventilation, and is warm+dry.
With clamping, I try to use the quick-clamp type, but C-clamps or spring clamps(bigger ones) will do. A carpenter's two-spindle wood clamp is ideal. On top of the foam blocking, put a truck-riser wedge to flatten things back to parallel so the clamps don't slip while holding. Maybe consider using a thin board on top of the truck wedges to spread the clamping forces out along the block.
I hope this helps you out. If any questions pop up, call, or P.M. me here.
Maybe I'll see you in Antrim or at The Dam? I hope so. We gotta go cruise Stratton, there's new tar on Taylor Hill!!
