DIY Truck Mod's help Please?

[Barry Brown]

How Do

Thank you both for your replies, much appreciated.

Wesley; M8 & M10 Nyloc nuts can be bought as easily as sweeties in the U.K (You are never too old for sweeties) on the other hand UNF nuts and bolts are hard to get hold of though not impossible for a price.

Robert; Thank you for the links, I would not have even thought about Shimm's for the axles, I will give that a try before I start breaking stuff.

Thanks again.
Take care,
Barry

[Robert Wadley]

shimming the axles should have the same effect as replacing the axles with 8mm rods.

http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title= ... les_to_8mm

be sure to face the hangers first

http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Facing_Hangers

[Wesley Tucker]

Barry,

5/16" is smaller than 8mm (naturally. That's why there's slop.) When replacing axles it's a matter of hitting it with a big enough hammer while avoiding cracking a cast aluminum hanger. This is certainly a question Eric "Geezer X" Wallgren can answer in his Monkey Wrench Machine Works forum. These sort of 5/16" to 8mm upgrades is something he's very proficient at doing.

As far as the threading is concerned, the reason I always assumed we used fine threads is because it's easier to get nylon insert lock nuts. Being an American I don't know that I've ever used or dealt with a coarse metric threading but if I were you I'd confirm availability for matching nuts.

[Barry Brown]

How Do All

I have a few questions about truck modifications. I have several Bennett Vectors, a couple of Skennetts, a couple of Skandals a few Tracker RTS's ( I don't want to butcher them all but that is the main trucks I have)

To start with a question on thread type: I know that most trucks have a 5/16" UNF threaded axle and a 3/8" UNF threaded Kingpin, Is there a reason for using a fine thread over a course thread or does this not matter, personal preference?

To Continue from the above question: As metric course threads are easy to come by in the U.K would it be ok to re-drill the truck base plate to accept a M10 (10mm) Kingpin with a course thread or would this be an unwise move?

Also I read posts about using 8mm axles to reduce flutter and slop as the bearings have a 8mm center, Is it possible and easy enough to remove the 5/16" axles and replace with a 8mm axle ( I have the use of a machine shop at work) If so what material would I need to use for the 8mm axle, would it be ok to use an M8 course thread for the ends and would the material need to be heat treated, or re-heat treated after cutting threads?
What would be the best way to machine the hanger to mach the 8mm axle and how best to fix the axle in the hanger?

Sorry for the many questions, but I am very interested in this subject and would lke to know if I am wasting my time contemplating do these mod's.

Thank you in advance for your ideas and help.
Take care,
Barry